Dungarpur: A Royal Bliss

Eisha Sarkar
Published in Mumbai Mirror on May 6, 2009

Posted On www.mumbaimirror.com on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 at 02:06:45 PM

Nestled in the Aravallis, with blue waters of the Gaibsagar Lake on one side and a reserve forest on the other, the Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur preserves the old world charm of princely India. Unlike neighbouring tourist hot-spots such as Mount Abu, Udaipur and Jaisalmer, residents of the town of Dungarpur aren't accustomed to weary tourists browsing through the local bazaars for souveniers. There are few restaurants that offer Rajasthani pure vegetarian thalis (mandatorily served with 20 grams of pure ghee), a Swaminarayan Temple and places that offer 'Angrezi Beer'. Most Rajasthan tourist guides would skip this sleepy town, but for avid birdwatchers can't miss this one.

The 'City of Hills'
Dungarpur or The City of Hills was founded in the 13th century amongst the rugged peaks of the Aravalli mountains but came into prominence under the reign of the Guhilot Ahara Suryavanshi Rajputs, who trace their ancestry to the Chittorgarh Royals.

Udai Bilas Palace

Art dekko: President of the Cricket Club of India, Raj Singh Dungarpur's ancestral home spells luxury with a capital L. Built in the 1860s by Maharawal UdaiSinghji-II, the bluish-grey structure (made of the local Perva stone) overlooks the lake. The Ek Thambia Mahal, features intricate sculptured pillars and panels, jharokhas (ornate balconies) and marble architecture typical of the Rajput kings. Three new wings were added to the complex in 1940 by Maharawal Laxman Singhji and created the famous courtyard.

Royal treat: Still the royal resident of the current king Maharawal MahipalSinghji and Prince HarshvardhanSinghji, the palace now offers 24 rooms for tourist accomodation. No two rooms are alike (there'll be a slight difference in the wooden furniture, if not the room) and they start at Rs 5,000 per night for a double room. Meals (charged extra) are served in the Zenana chowk where the tub-shaped marble table is filled with water and artificial lotuses to give it a regal touch. The menu's decided by the king, but if you can always specify what you want and the staff will do their best to get it for you.

Scoring on cricket: The lobby displays a collection of mounts of tigers, wild boars, deer and bears along with the C K Nayudu shield awarded to Raj Singh Dungarpur. In a glass cabinet, there is a bat signed by the players of the current Indian cricket team.

No-locks policy: Like other small lodges in Dungarpur, there's a no-lock policy at the palace too. The rooms have locks but no keys and you can't get yours (at some other hotels they allow you that). Kalvendra Singh, the manager, says, "The staff is extremely trustworthy and we assure you that you there will be no thefts. This has been the tradition here." Most city slickers may find it a little discomforting, so they may as well carry a hold-all for your valuables.

Infinity pool: A swimming pool that overlooks a natural lake is a rarity. More so, if the pool appears to be a part of the lake. The palace's pool has been built in such a way that it's blue waters seem to merge with that of the lake below.


Birdwatcher's paradise

In every room of the palace, you'll find a card that lists 124 birds species that come visiting to Dungarpur every year. While migratory birds such as grebes, pelicans, ducks, geese, Sarus Cranes, flamingoes, spoonbills, wigeons and storks can be seen cooling off in the lake waters from November to February, egrets, herons, ibises and white necked storks nest here from July to October.

Besides waterfowl, there are several woodland species of birds such as Grey Hornbill, Grey partridge, Green Pigeon, peafowl. The palace complex has a small zoo enclosure where you can find turkeys, emus, parakeets, white peacocks and lovebirds.

How to get there

Dungarpur is 175 kilometres from Ahmedabad and 120 kilometres from Udaipur. Roads in both Gujarat and Rajasthan are really very good so hire a taxi and get going.